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21 Jul 2015 Barbarian Days from Dymocks online bookstore. A Surfing Life. HardCover by William Finnegan.

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Just started reading this book and it is incredible! For anyone who is a big literature fan, this guy writes really well and his descriptions of the waves and his life,  Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing Shelves: read-from-shelf, ebook, 4000-books, read-audible. 21 Jul 2015 A surfing memoir might not be what you'd expect from a seasoned New Yorker reporter, but William Finnegan's new book is a loving look back  William Finnegan (born 1952) is a staff writer at The New Yorker and author of works of Print/export. Create a book · Download as PDF · Printable version  21 Jul 2015 Barbarian Days from Dymocks online bookstore. A Surfing Life. HardCover by William Finnegan. William Finnegan standing at the top of Kirra Point. Large amounts of sandy water were rushing around the end of the jetty, forming a torrent down the coast. 24 Aug 1992 Part 1 of William Finnegan's personal essay about his surfing days in San You throw yourself into the icy torrent and start plowing seaward.